Diamond Cut
Alloy Wheels

Can Diamond Cut Wheels Be Repaired?

Yes. Kerb marks, scratches, corrosion and peeling lacquer can usually be put right. The catch is that a diamond cut face cannot be fixed with paint or a touch-up pen. Paint covers the bright metal, so the repair stands out against the rest of the wheel. To get the proper finish back, the face has to be machined again on a lathe and then sealed with fresh lacquer.

This is not a job you can do at home. It needs a CNC lathe, a trained technician who knows how much metal can safely come off, and the right lacquer and curing equipment. A poor repair can leave an uneven finish, and cutting away too much metal can weaken the wheel.

How We Refurbish a Diamond Cut Wheel

Every wheel goes through the same careful stages. You can see more detail on our process page.

• Inspection. We check the wheel for kerb damage, corrosion, buckles and cracks, and look for signs that it has been re-cut before. This tells us whether diamond cutting is safe for your wheel.
• Tyre off and strip. The tyre is removed and the old lacquer, paint and corrosion are stripped away, so we start from clean metal.
• Repairs. Any kerb damage is repaired. If the wheel is buckled or cracked, that is dealt with first, through buckled wheel repair or cracked wheel repair.
• Base colour. The wheel is coated in its base colour. On a two-tone wheel, this is the colour you see between the bright cut areas.
• Diamond cutting. The wheel is mounted on the CNC lathe, which takes a very thin, even layer off the face to reveal fresh, bright metal.
• Lacquer and curing. A clear lacquer is applied to seal the bare metal, then cured so it sets hard.
• Final checks. We inspect the finish, refit the tyre and balance the wheel before it goes back on your car.

How Many Times Can a Diamond Cut Wheel Be Re-Cut?

Each time a wheel is diamond cut, the lathe removes a fine layer of metal. That metal does not grow back, so a wheel can only be re-cut a limited number of times before the face becomes too thin to cut safely. There is no single number that applies to every wheel. It depends on:

• How thick the wheel was to begin with. Some designs have more metal to work with than others.
• How deep the damage is. Deep kerb marks and heavy corrosion need more metal taken off than light scuffs.
• How many times it has been cut before. A wheel that has already been refurbished is closer to its limit.
• The wheel design. Some spoke patterns have thinner sections in places.

Our technicians check every wheel before cutting. If another cut would not be safe, we will tell you honestly and suggest another option.

When Powder Coating Is the Better Choice

If a wheel has been re-cut as many times as it safely can, or the corrosion is very deep, powder coating is often the better route. Powder coating does not remove any metal. The wheel is coated in a tough finish that is baked on in an oven, which stands up well to chips and bad weather. A silver or metallic shade keeps a similar look, or you can choose a completely new colour.

Why Diamond Cut Wheels Corrode

The weak point of a diamond cut wheel is its thin layer of clear lacquer. Underneath sits bare, machined aluminium. While the lacquer is unbroken, the metal is sealed. Once the lacquer is broken by a kerb scuff, a stone chip or small cracks that form over time, water and road salt can creep underneath and attack the metal.

This shows up as white, cloudy marks that spread out in fine lines under the clear coat. Aluminium has a natural protective layer, but it only stays stable in mild conditions. Strong acids and strong alkalis break it down, which is why harsh cleaners do so much harm to these wheels.

Early warning signs

Check the outer edge of the wheel face now and then, as this is where damage usually starts. Look for:

• Small cloudy or milky patches under the clear coat
• Fine white lines creeping out from a chip or scuff
• Bubbling or lifting lacquer that no longer feels smooth
• Dull grey spots where the shine has faded
• Small chips that show bare metal

Act early. Once corrosion spreads, more metal has to be cut away to remove it, which uses up more of the wheel's life. A small early repair is nearly always the cheaper and easier choice.

Cleaning Diamond Cut Wheels Safely

Gentle, regular cleaning protects the lacquer, and the lacquer is what keeps corrosion out. Choose a pH-neutral wheel cleaner that says it is safe for lacquered or diamond cut wheels. A good car shampoo in warm water is also fine for regular washing.

What to do

• Let the wheels cool down after driving before you clean them.
• Rinse off loose dirt and brake dust first, so you do not rub grit into the surface.
• Clean one wheel at a time with a soft brush, sponge or microfibre cloth.
• Do not let the cleaner dry on the wheel. Rinse it off fully.
• Dry each wheel with a clean, soft cloth so water does not sit in the grooves.
• Add a wheel sealant now and then. It makes brake dust easier to wash off and gives the lacquer extra protection.
• Clean more often in winter, when road salt is on the roads.

What to avoid

• Acid-based or strong "wheel brightening" cleaners, which can eat into the lacquer and the metal underneath.
• Household products such as bleach.
• Wire brushes, scouring pads or anything abrasive.
• Holding a pressure washer close to the wheel, which can force water into small chips in the lacquer.

For a simple routine, see our guide on how to clean alloy wheels with WD40.

What Affects the Cost of Diamond Cut Refurbishment?

Prices depend on wheel size, how much damage there is and the finish you choose. A wheel that needs straightening or welding before it can be re-cut will cost more than one with a light scuff, and a two-tone finish takes more work than a single colour. Refurbishing is usually far cheaper than buying a new diamond cut wheel. See our price list for current prices.

All our diamond cut and powder coated wheels come with a 3 year warranty, and we offer loan wheels so you can drive away the same day. Book at our Romford, Dartford or Hemel Hempstead workshop.